UK Roadtrip: Northern Loop Itinerary
Pack your wellies and rent a car - we're going on an English roadtrip! This itinerary includes stops in Bedfordshire, Yorkshire, Northumberland, the Lake District, and the Cotswolds.
Earlier this year we spent a week driving around England and exploring some of the corners of the country we have not previously visited. When planning any driving itinerary, I find that it works best if your route takes you in a loop from start to finish, so you are not double-backing on previously taken roads. The itinerary that I am going to share with you below starts and ends in London. While you are certainly free to explore London either on the front or back end of the trip, the focus of my suggested route will be a loop around the northern part of England: Yorkshire, Northumberland, the Lake District, and the Cotswolds. Buckle up, pack a thermos of hot tea to take on the road, and enjoy the trip!
Day 1: Hyde Mill Bed and Breakfast, Luton, Bedforshire
You can reach Hyde Mill in less than an hour’s drive from London - we beelined here straight from the airport after picking up our rental car. Hyde Mill B&B is a beautifully restored 19th century water mill, which offers modern accommodations among picturesque countryside landscape. Our room was very comfortable and large, situated in a converted cow barn with a parking spot right up front. The home-cooked hot breakfast was certainly the highlight of the stay, served in a cozy dining room in the main house. The innkeepers were very friendly and accommodating over email - we were able to check-in early after arriving on an early morning flight from the States.
Where to Eat:
The Waffle House: This family-friendly restaurant is located in St. Albans, a nearby town, in a 16th century water mill overlooking the River Ver. There is a large outdoor patio as well as indoor seating. We came here after settling into our hotel on the first day of our trip - it was the perfect first meal in England. The menu consists of traditional breakfast items, to include freshly made Belgian waffles from locally-ground flour. The top menu item for us was a “banoffee” - a Belgian waffle with cut-up banana and smothered with homemade toffee sauce and sprinkled with flaked milk chocolate. We still talk about it.
What to Do:
St. Albans Cathedral: Just a short stroll from The Waffle House, St. Albans Cathedral dates back 1700 years. The local lore indicates that the Alban Bun, the precursor to the famous Hot Cross Bun, originated in St Albans where a 14th Century monk developed the original recipe and the monks would distribute these buns to feed the poor on Good Friday. You can get a cup of tea and a bun at the Abbot’s Kitchen Cafe inside the cathedral - their homemade soup special looked delicious as well. The cathedral shop has a well-curated collection of local history books, cards, and traditional gifts to bring home.
Walk Around Harpenden Village: While St. Albans is a big town, Harpenden is a traditional small British village nearby with lots of charm. We went to Sainsbury’s grocery store in the town center to stock up on some roadtrip snacks and waters for the car ride. We also strolled around the Rothamsted Estate, which is very popular with the locals regardless of how muddy the roads or cold the weather may be. The walking trail maps can be found here. Local tip: Park at the Harpenden Leisure Center and walk down the hill to the walking path that would lead you to the Rothamsted Manor House (pictured below).
Once we took our morning walk and stocked up on British snacks, we were back in the car and off to the Yorkshire Dales! While the next destination is about a 4 hour drive, I recommend stopping at The Chatsworth House in Derbyshire for some lunch and a look around this historic estate.
On The Way:
The Chatsworth House: I purchased our entrance tickets online here, so we didn’t have to wait at the ticket booth when we arrived. Chatsworth is home to the Devonshire family, and has been passed down through 16 generations. We did a walk through the main house and helpful volunteers stationed throughout were happy to share interesting stories of the home. The house was featured as Mr. Darcy’s home in the Pride and Prejudice movie, so the gift shops carried a wide array of Jane Austen merchandise. We had a late lunch at the Carriage House Cafe (self-serve cafeteria) in the converted horse stables. I got the garden vegetable “soup of the day” with freshly baked bread, which is never a bad choice in England. The stables gift shop was vast, wrapping around the whole courtyard, and beautifully curated with English garden supplies, books, and other treasures. I also have to note that the whole compound is vast (105 acres) and impossible to cover by foot, so we did pay a little extra to take a trolley tour of the gardens (your feet will thank you later).
Days 2-3: The Devonshire Grassington
We stayed here for two nights in a family suite above the pub and could have definitely stayed longer. The Yorkshire area is as picturesque as you can get with rolling hills, sheep, and quaint towns. We have come to the Yorkshire Dales as big fans of All Creatures Great and Small, a BBC show about a British country vet set in this area. It filmed across a range of locations in Yorkshire, including the historic market town of Grassington, which plays a central role in the drama as Darrowby Village. The Devonshire Grassington is featured as the Drovers Arms pub in the TV show. (If you haven’t seen this heartwarming show based on the classic James Harriott books written by a British veterinarian and author Alf Wight, it is available for streaming on PBS! Pour yourself a cup of Yorkshire tea, grab a biscuit, and settle in for a cozy evening of quality British television.)
Where to Eat:
We made a reservation to have dinner at the Devonshire Grassington pub and I highly recommend doing that after a long drive. I certainly don’t feel like going out to find something to eat at the end of a long travel day! My daughter still claims that the burger she had here was the best she’s ever had - and I can say the same about my gin and tonic with a locally-infused rhubarb and peppercorn gin. We liked the pub so much that we ate here both nights that we spent in Grassington. You can’t beat the convenience of just going upstairs to retire for the night after a good meal (and another gin and tonic!)
What to Do:
While in the Yorkshire Dales, you have to go for a walk! The Brits are known for their love of “walking holidays” and no better place to do all of that walking than in Yorkshire. We did this walking route to the neighboring village, which took a little over an hour. As a reward, we treated ourselves to lunch with cream tea and fresh cakes at the Old School Tea Room in Hebden.
After two nights of relaxing in Yorkshire, we got back on the road refreshed and ready to explore more of the countryside and do some shopping.
On The Way:
Our fist stop on the way up north was a stop at Ormesby Hall in North Yorkshire to explore the grounds and have lunch. Ormesby Hall is a National Trust property - a classic Georgian mansion that is surrounded by 240 acres of parkland and a beautiful Victorian formal garden. General tip: National Trust properties usually have great cafes on the premises for a cheap and delicious quick lunch option. Did I order their soup of the day (ginger carrot)? You bet I did!
Our next stop was the Barbour Factory Outlet in South Shields, an industrial area full of working factories and vast warehouses. Come here for the shopping, not for the views. Barbour started out as a brand creating durable, quality clothing for fishermen and dock workers in the north of England. During World War II, Barbour outfitted submarine commanders, frontline soldiers and aviation fighters. After the war, Barbour took on outfitting country aristocrats with clothing suited for donning at their estates, specializing in the iconic waxed jackets. They continue to manufactory their jackets at this factory in South Shields. The prices at the factory outlet store were very good and there was a large selection of shoes and accessories as well. Highly recommend getting a waxed jacket here to take home as a true British souvenir.
Day 4: The Lord Crew Arms Hotel, Blanchland
Would you like to encounter a ghost while staying in the small village of Blanchland? The Lord Crew Arms medieval hotel in Northumberland (northernmost area of England) was founded in 1155 as a guest house to Blanchland Abbey. The Abbey was dissolved by King Henry VIII in 1539 and the monks went into hiding. Unsurprisingly, the building is now allegedly haunted by a monk dressed in white and kneeling in prayer. Another ghost that haunts this property is Dorothy Foster, who was the sister of Tom Foster, the commander of the Jacobite forces during the 1715 uprising, who was captured and imprisoned. Dorothy tried to help him escape but all of her attempts failed. She allegedly haunts the hotel to tell her brother that it is now safe to come back to Northumberland.
We didn’t encounter any ghosts while we stayed here, but our suite (with a separate bedroom for our daughter) was roomy and comfortable. I loved all of the Scottish tartan and tweed fabrics used in the decor of the hotel. Aren’t those country toile pillows and matching headboard amazing (picture below)? Edinburgh is only a few hours’ drive north from Blachland and traditional Scottish mood was palpable throughout the hotel (or was that Dorothy’s ghost after all?)
Where to Eat:
Blanchland is a very small village, so the Lord Crewe Arms hotel is the only dining destination in town. First, I highly recommend that you get a drink at the Crypt Bar. It is located in a dimly lit medieval chamber - not your regular pub experience for sure! Then for dinner make a reservation at the main restaurant at the hotel, which serves a creative variety of local and seasonal dishes. They also served a great breakfast selection the next morning, complete with “flipped and fried” eggs and homemade jams for your toast.
After a quick walk through the village to check out the scenery, we vowed to be back soon and headed to our next destination - the Lake District.
On The Way:
Hadrian’s Wall: Roman Emperor Hadrian built this wall to mark the northern boundary of the Roman Empire. Now wall ruins can be found throughout northern England. This particular section of the wall in Brampton was on the way to our next destination, so we stopped to check it out. If you like history, this is a worthwhile quick stop (and there is a great museum shop on the premises).
Lanercost Tea Room and Shop: Adjacent to the 12th century Lanercost Priory (we didn’t go there, but it looked cool), the Lanercost Tea Room is a great place near Hadrian’s Wall to grab some lunch and warm up with a cup of tea. The menu featured homemade cakes and various scones - the walnut cake was excellent and I’m not even a dessert enthusiast. I also enjoyed looking through the gift shop, which was packed full of unique locally made products, such as candles, soaps, and pure wool throws. With plenty of sheep around, I was confident that the woolen products did not travel very far from their origin.
Day 5: The Forest Side, Grasmere
After a 1.5 hour ride to the Lake District, we arrived in Grasmere and checked into The Forest Side. This hotel was our splurge option of the trip as it has a Michelin star restaurant on the premises that we wanted to try. The best thing about the Forest Side, however, was its convenient location in Grasmere - walking distance to William Wordsworth’s house and museum as well as to the town center. If you are traveling with kids, who are not Michelin star gourmands, you can quickly nip into town by foot and get them an early dinner at one of the local pubs.
What to Do:
The Dove Cottage: Grasmere is known for Robert Wordsworth’s poetry, delicious gingerbread, and magnificent lake views. There are definitely hikes to be done in the area, but we opted for a more relaxing option of strolling around town and going to visit William Wordsworth’s home, where he resided with his family between 1799 and 1808 and wrote some of his most famous poetry, including ‘‘I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud.’’ Buy a book of Robert’s poetry to take home as a souvenir from his home in the Lake District.
At this point of our journey, we were ready to do a load or two of laundry to refresh our wardrobes and get reacquainted with some of our clothes worn earlier in the trip. We drove to the neighboring town of Ambleside on a hunt for a laundromat. While waiting for our clothes to dry at the centrally located Ambleside Lauderette (Address: 1 Kelsick Road in Ambleside), we enjoyed a cup of delicious coffee around the corner at The Copper Pot cafe.
Shopping: I highly recommend shopping for sheep wool inserts in one of many village shops that sell locally-made woolen items. These inserts are great for your wellies (or rain boots for all of us Americans) and would keep your feet warm and cozy!
Where to Eat:
Grasmere Gingerbread: Grasmere Gingerbread was invented by Victorian cook Sarah Nelson in 1854. We smelled the freshly made gingerbread long before we approached the little shop in the middle of the village (the same place where Sarah used to live and sell her baked goods). This particular gingerbread is described as a sweet and savory combination of a cookie (biscuit in British English) and cake. The line outside the shop may seem intimating, but it moves fast and the sweet reward is worth it!
Full of gingerbread and with clean clothes in our suitcases, we piled into the car and headed to our next (and final) destination - The Cotswolds.
On the Way:
On the way to the Cotswolds, we visited Stoke-on-Trent in Staffordshire, the area known for pottery making and the ever-popular Staffordshire dogs that are always in high demand among antique collectors. I always keep an eye out for them during estate sales and online auctions in Virginia! Staffordshire dogs were made in this area in large numbers in the 19th century and donned many fireplace mantels for years to come.
World of Wedgwood: We didn’t get a chance to do the factory tour when we visited, but that’s definitely on the list for another visit. Tours take place Wednesday, Thursday and Friday and available to book 90 days in advance - so plan accordingly! We still had a great time visiting the V&A Wedgwood Collection, the museum of Wedgwood’s design history on the premises (free admission!) There is also a factory store that sells discounted Wedgwood china and Waterford crystal, which is worth a look as well.
Emma Bridgewater: The Emma Bridgewater working factory is located just on the outskirts of Stoke-on-Trent's city center. There are many fun activities that you can do here during your visit: factory tours, pottery painting, and a great kitchen cafe, complete with a polka dot Aga stove. The factory also has a great factory outlet shop selling a wide range of discontinued lines of tableware, cookware and textiles at reduced prices. I loved this place!
Days 6-7: The Wild Rabbit, Cotswolds
The Wild Rabbit is a cozy country inn located in the picturesque surroundings of the Cotswolds. We stayed in a cozy little cottage next to the main building, which was comfortable for our family of three. We enjoyed taking walks through the village, going to a local shop for a few necessities, and talking to the friendly staff at the restaurant bar. The breakfast that they serve in the main dining room was the best we’ve had on this trip!
What to Do:
Daylesford Organic Farm: This farm compound was like Disneyland for those who like British gardens, farm to table dining, and shopping for garden tools (and who doesn’t want to be like Monty?) Daylesford has a restaurant (with amazing takeout pizza that we took back to our cottage one night), a casual cafe with good coffee, a farm shop that sells locally sourced ingredients, and an amazing housewares shop. We ate lunch at the restaurant here and enjoyed the fresh salads and fruit mocktails they served.
Diddly Squat Farm Shop: If you have a Top Gear fan in your travel group, they would have heard about this place already. The shop was made famous by Jeremy Clarkson’s TV show “Clarkson’s Farm.” We saw a pretty long line outside of the shop when we drove by, so we did not brave the crowds. However, the shop is definitely supposed to be the antithesis to the posh Doylesford Farm. The website describes this shopping venue as “a small barn full of good, no-nonsense things you'll like. We do not, for example, sell kale.”
Where to Eat:
The Fox: There was no availability for dinner at the Wild Rabbit when we arrived (do yourself a solid and book dinner reservations in advance), so the inn staff got us a last minute reservation at The Fox in a neighboring village. This village pub had excellent food (the pizza and chicken pot pie were delicious) and a cozy atmosphere. We loved it!
While you are in the Cotswolds, it’s fun to drive around without specific purpose and stop at will in the little villages along the way. Each one is a bound to have a cozy pub or a coffee shop if you get hungry! We’ve visited Chipping Norton (a bigger town closest to the Wild Rabbit inn), Chipping Camden (delicious lunch at Eight Bells Inn), and Stow-on-the-Wold (afternoon tea at The Hive). Walk around, pop into shops, and enjoy the slow pace of life in the country! That’s what spending time in the Cotswolds is all about.
If you need petrol or a snack, the best rest area in the region is the Gloucester Services. They have a cafe that serves homemade hot meals and a farm shop stocked with local cheeses, fresh bread, and locally made housewares and clothing. Everything that you can possibly need in one convenient location! And very clean bathrooms to boot. I may have to find an excuse to drive this stretch of M5 again just to go back to this services plaza.
After a relaxing stay in the Cotswolds, you can make your way back to London, which is about 2 hours away. I hope that you enjoyed this roadtrip itinerary and will check out some of my favorite sites during your next trip to England. Safe travels!
I’m glad you enjoyed the World of Wedgwood! Did you eat in their cafe? I always recommend it as a stop-off when driving north along the M6 from London! I’ve yet to make the pilgrimage to Emma Bridgewater but am a frequent shopper in the seconds section of their website
Love Emma bridgewater’s china! Such a fun trip and your pics are 💯